The Koch Korps of Rediscovery and Kalamity

A record of a mad 2-week dash from St. Louis to the Pacific and back in the footsteps of Lewis and Clark

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Location: Saint Peters, Missouri, United States

Friday, August 06, 2004

Crazy Horse and Custer

Journal Day 11
8/4/04--Wednesday
Billings to Mt. Rushmore by way of Pompey's Pillar

We spent the night at the Billings Montana KOA campground. It’s a very nice one. Their corporate offices are still here. We've been camping at KOA's the entire vacation. They've all been acceptable; some have been excellent. This one is excellent.

I met a teacher who is originally from Georgia. Now she teaches on Kodiak Island in Alaska. She says its very rewarding, but also very challenging. She also recommends driving as the way to see Alaska, taking the Al-Can highway, which is something we would love to combine someday with an Alaska cruise.

Today we have a great delay in starting out--we need to take care of a few things from the real world like bill-paying, getting prescriptions filled, grocery shopping, etc. We don't even leave Billings until after 3pm. We know this will mean a very late night, but it can't be helped.

Even though it's out of our way, Garrett decides we can still visit Pompey's Pillar, and I'm very glad. It’s a large granite formation next to the Yellowstone river that people have been leaving their mark on for probably a thousand years. You can still see where William Clark carved his name on July 25, 1806. It's the only physical evidence remaining anywhere on the landscape of the Expedition. This time we knew we were standing EXACTLY where Clark stood! Also visiting Pompey's pillar are some members of a vintage car club with Bentleys and Rolls Royces. They were also following the Lewis and Clark trail, then going to California. They even had special front license plates for the trip! The gentleman I spoke with told me they were having a good time, however, one of them was working on his car. . . (reminds me a little of the BMW club.) And so, farewell for a while to Lewis and Clark--we'll rendezvous with you in a few days.
We take a little two-lane shortcut back to I90. Usually that kind of decision results in some sort of adventure for us, but today we're blessed!
Now we proceed on to the Little Bighorn battlefield (yes, all in the same day!) It's a place we have both wanted to visit for a while. I've read books about the battle, and we've seen the TV show about the archeological and forensic evidence, which tells a story of the battle that is different from the "Custer's Last Stand” legend. We buy the auto tour tape (and I buy Stephen Ambrose book, "Crazy Horse and Custer") and we're off. After seeing the battlefield, I have a little bit better understanding of what happened. (Battles are confusing events to study). What really struck me was the lack of cover--no trees, no rocks. The men of the Custer’s command were completely exposed throughout most of the battle. How the men of Reed's command held out overnight, and how the water-bearers made it to the river and back, is pretty amazing. Obviously if the Indians had chosen to wipe them out, they could have. Also of interest is that the monuments and exhibits are very much pro-Army and pro-Custer; the auto tour tape is more pro-Indian. Maybe that's good; it's up to the visitor to figure out the truth somewhere in between. Good luck, historians have been arguing about it for over 100 years. And still are.

We finally reach the Black Hills; but it's past midnight and we can't see a thing. Just large dark shapes against the sky that we suspect are the “hills”—they’d pass for mountains back in Missouri! We pass one peak we THINK may be Mount Rushmore. The KOA is huge--a small village--and easy to find. Their registration desk and general store is open 24 hours a day. Nice to have someone to talk to! Bedtime 3am. I thought we were on vacation!